Audio

Special parts in stock

• Silicone motor mounts for vintage turntables
• Tone arm locks for vintage turntables
• Parts for Lenco idler drive turntables
• Parts for Thorens turntables
• Parts for Braun PS-500
• Feet for Sonab loudspeakers

Silicone motor mounts for vintage turntables

Price for all ordinary silicone grommets: 55 Sek/grommet + postage. Most sets consist of 3 grommets, some of 2, 4, or 6.

The Russco parts are 600 Sek/set + postage.

(A.k.a. vibration isolators, rubber bushings, rubber buffers, shock absorbers, rubber damping blocks, cushions, gummitülle, gommini gel motore, supports de moteur de tourne-disque)

We make and sell hand cast copies of orginal parts, with a perfect fit, better vibration damping, and longer expected lifetime than the originals. All vital external dimensions as in original parts, but sometimes with details adapted to the materials and methods used, or as plain improvements.

Most of the parts listed here aren't available anywhere else.

We keep silicones in several different qualites on stock, and make the parts in the best hardness for each model. The quality used is chosen primarily by measuring for the most effective vibration damping, and secondly for the sideways stability of the motor, to minimise any fluctuations in the tension of the belt.

Since silicone is a far more effective vibration damper than the original rubbers ever were, a properly restored turntable with silicone motor mounts will normally have less rumble than when new, even accounting for normal wear.

Usually one can expect a reduction of the motor rumble of ca 6-10 dB (unweighted, measured at the top plate) compared to original parts - even more if the originals are badly aged. On most belt drive machines this is enough to at least reduce the rumble to, or below, the surface noise from the records, which is the most important level to achieve.

Replacing the parts is normally a drop-in affair. Sometimes the height of the motor spindle may need an adjustment, if the belt should chafe against some other part, or if the idler wheel would meet the spindle at the wrong height.

About rumble

"Rumble" is the common term for mechanical noise from the turntable's machinery. It is most commonly identified by a constant droning low frequency noise at a fixed pitch set by the rotating speed of the motor, audible through the loudspeakers while the stylus is running in its track.

If the noise stops or is reduced when raising the cartridge from the record, you are hearing rumble. If it doesn't, you probably are hearing an electrical hum, which these motor mounts will not help.

While rumble is dominated by the motor drone, it in fact consists of a wide spectrum of frequencies from different moving parts, plus their respective - often surprisingly loud - overtones. This noise spectrum drowns out the details of the music not loud enough to be heard behind it. This masking makes rumble not only a problem of added audible noise, but also one of lost musical information. The seemingly iffy audiophile metafor of a "black background" is in fact an apt description of the less obvious aspects of this.

As so often in audio specs, the common "rumble level" figures, presented in weighted or unweighted dB:s, hide this aspect of the noise behind a sum of the different parts of the spectrum, since that sum is heavily dominated by the fundamental frequency from the the rotor.

Apart from bad motor mounts, some other common sources for rumble are dried out or oxidised oil in the motor or main bearing, or badly worn bearings. On idler drives the state of the idler wheel and its bearing is another major factor.

This can't really be stressed enough on any belt or idler drive vintage turntable: If you don't have the time for a proper restoration of the bearings, please at least lubricate the main bearing, and if possible, also the motor and idler bearings with a sewing machine or compressor oil before putting it into continuous use. If you didn't before, do it now.

You can always get back for a proper by-the-book restoration with the ideal oils at a later day. But you can very seldom replace 60 years old bearings worn out due to lack of oil. Many vintage machines in the current turntable revival are already irretrievably damaged because their new users didn't take this simple first step. Adding to the misfortune, the better the bearings - and the turntable - the more there is to lose by lack of maintenance.

Replacing the motor mounts is not a substitute for servicing the bearings.

Dimensions

If your turntable isn't listed here the motor mounts can often be replaced by one from another brand or model. Start by comparing the dimensions of your original part with the ones given here.

If a potential replacement is a bit too high, the top can usually be cut down a bit with a sharp knife. (Push a pen into the hole, and cut against the side of it).

If too low, an O-ring, or even a spacer at the top of the grommet should do the trick.

If the D1 dimension of the grommet is slightly too big, add a piece of shrink tubing on the mounting screw where it meets the grommet.

There is also one more option: we can perhaps arrange a way to copy your old grommets, and add them to our stock. There are still many other turntables we would want to make parts for. You are welcome to contact us with any questions.

Parts in stock

Akai AP-3 (same as the Thorens td-124/135)

More info on other Thorens parts can be found on a separate page.

Dimensions (in mm): H1: 5.0, D1: 4.8, D2: 8.2, D3: 5.5, D4: 10.0, D5: 12.5.

Akai AP-100 and AP-100c

The original motor mounts (called rubber pad SBR in the service manual) in these have a slightly different profile, but effectively the same dimensions as the ones for Pioneer PL-12d (see below). They only differ by a couple of tenths of a mm, which does not affect their function.

Dimensions for the recommended Pioneer parts (in mm): H1: 16.2, D1: 6.0, D2: 9.5, D3: 7.5, D4: 10.0, D5: 17.0.

(For reference, the dimensions for the orginal parts are H1: 16.4. D1: 6.0, D2; 9.8, D3: 7.8, D4: 10.4, D5: 18.4)

Braun PS-500

The parts I make for the Braun PS-500 have a separate page. Owners of PS-1000 may be interested in the ones for the Micro Seiki SR-111 below.

Dual 505, 508

Replaces Dual p/n 232 841.

Honestly: the Dual original mounts are made in top quality rubbers, and don't normally need to be replaced. While these are a bit more effective than the original parts, they are primarily meant as replacements for badly aged or damaged parts.

If your belt drive Dual has an audible rumble, the first thing to do is to take the motor apart, clean and oil it. These motors have bearings with some of the smallest oil reservoirs of any turntable, which means they are always dried out. The motor mounts are to be suspected only if the motor is still noisy after an overhaul.

Our grommets for 505 and 508 are not symmetrical as the originals. This doesn't affect their function. Due to the methods and materials used, they have a slightly uglier bottom side. Mount them with the neat conical side upwards, since that is where they carry the weight of the motor.

Dimensions (in mm): H1: 4.5, D1: 3.0, D2: 6.5, D3: 3.0, D4: 8.0, D5: 11.0.

Dual 502, 504, 506, 510, 521, 601

See note under Dual 505, 508.

Dimensions (in mm): H1: 10.0, D1: 4.0, D2: 12.0, D3: 5.0.0, D4: 8.0, D5: 12.0.

Elac Miracord 10H, 40H, 50H et al

Replaces Elac p/n 17 416 5263.

I think these are used in all Elac models, but would be glad to be corrected if wrong. Please check your motor before ordering. Most have 2 grommets on top (the nylon stopper doesn't need to be replaced), but some have an additional third one at the bottom of the motor.

Dimensions (in mm): H1: 5.0, D1: 3.8, D2: 10.0, D3: 4.5, D4: 7.5, D5: 11.1.

Garrard Zero 100, SL-95, SL-86, SP-25 - basically most of the models after Lab 80

Replaces Garrard p/n 43129/002 and 43129/003.

The rubber Garrard motor mounts have always been very difficult to replace. Apart from the special set of the Lab 80 most of them are mounted "upside down", with the steel pillar mounts of the motor hanging in the tips of the rubber grommets. Thus any replacement parts must have a very precise outside and inside shape.

Uniquely, the Garrard motors are not meant to rest on top of their motor mounts. If the lock spacer of your motor mount does, it has lost most of the isolation the grommet was supposed to provide. The top spacers are only for safety, meant to never touch the rubber. The pillar should only be held in place by the grip of the bottom end of the grommet.

These smaller motor mounts were originally designed for the AT60, Model 50 and Autoslim models, by adapting the RC88-type of grommets from the early sixties to the new lighter motors. At that time they were still made in a rather hard rubber to provide a firm enough grip on the pillar. By the release of the SL95, the design was again modified, by replacing the two grommets closest to the idler wheel with softer parts. This improved the isolation from the motor, but also sometimes caused the softer grommets to droop, or even to drop through their mounting holes in the top plate.

Our version is slightly modified to avoid that problem, by having a 2 mm wider top. This also allowed for making the top a bit thinner, to reduce the risk of touching the lock spacers.

We again revised them in August 2023. The current ones are mainly improved in their grip of the pillars the motor hangs from, achieved by a more precise shape of the tip, and a slightly harder type of silicone than before in the two softer grommets.

Dimensions (in mm): H1: 8.1, D1: 4.8, D2: 10.0, D3: 6.8, D4: 9.0, D5: 13.2.

About foam inserts in the chassis springs

Garrard 40, 50, 55, 60, SL55, SL65, AT60, Model 50, 1000/2000/3000, Autoslim, Unimech

(See also the note at the Garrard Zero 100 above)

Replaces pn 43140 (50, 60, 55, 65, Unimechs),

These models used the same shape of motor mounts as the later Synchro-Lab models, but with three grommets of equal hardness.

Due to variations in the weight of the older motors, and possibly also in the balancing of their motor mounts, it is safest to use three harder grommets on these pre-SL models, just as in the originals. But of course it is possible to experiment with a SL set instead for reduced rumble. Or, if in doubt, even request a set of 3 harder and 2 softer grommets to experiment with.

Dimensions as above.

Garrard RC88, RC98, Type A, A70, Model 4, 4hf, RC120, RC121, RC209 and RC210

(See also the note at the Garrard Zero 100 above)

Replaces pn A43128 (Type A, A70), A43118 (4hf), A43109 (RC120, RC212), A43123 (RC209, RC210), a43109 (RC88, RC98), 43128 and 43136 (A70)

These earliest rubber motor mounts in the 60s Garrards introduced the hanging design that survived into the Synchro-Lab era. But these were a fair bit sturdier, to carry the weight of the heavier old motors. Some models (At least RC88 and RC98) even used four grommets instead of three. Please check yours before placing your order!

Dimensions: D1: 5.0, D2: 12.0, D3: 8.0, D4: 12.0, D5: 16.5, H1: 8.5.

Garrard Lab 80

Replaces Garrard p/n: 43135/01.

The Lab 80 has the motor sandwiched inside a steel cage, with two sets of rubber grommets at top and bottom for isolation - 6 grommets in total in a simplified version of the 301/401 motor mounts.

The original parts were made in a very high quality rubber in a hollow shape, and have often aged surprisingly well. On at least some machines they came with two of the grommets in a slightly different shape, compensating for the sideways force from the idler wheel. This is very easy to overlook in the original parts, especially if they have deformed with age, since the two grommets are only 1 mm lower and slightly wider without any other visible clues. This is not even mentioned in the service manuals.

These new grommets have a slightly modified design for best balance between damping and sideways stability, without the hollow innards of the originals. Also, the two shorter grommets now have a small notch along the middle for easy identification. Mount those two at the top side of the motor, closest to the idler wheel. The parts are designed and tested in cooperation with Wallace Nesbitt at the Garrard Lab 80 and Type A Turntable Lovers Facebook group.

I wouldn't recommend it, but of course you can get six equally high grommets if you prefer so. Just add a note when placing your order.

Standard dimensions are not applicable. The height between the top and bottom flanges is 13.8 / 13.0 mm

Finally available, november 2024: Silicone motor mounts for Gates, QRK, RCA, Russco broadcast turntables

Replaces Russco p/n 100PL-2 and 100PL-a.

These parts fit about one half of the US vintage turntable brands. (E. g. Rek-O-Cut and Empire decks have different motor mounts, which we do not make).

The parts have been developed and tested in cooperation with members at the Audio Karma and Lenco Heaven forums. The development process can be followed in these two threads:

Lenco Heaven: A Slow QRK Rebuild

Audio Karma: RCA Broadcast Idler Turntable Restoration

The original parts were standard industrial isolators, put to a clever use for mono playback by allowing for a much freer movement vertically than horizontally. During the mono era this made a major part of the motor vibrations inaudible, since the mono cartridges at that time were designed to only register lateral (horizontal) movement. This advantage was lost with the advent of stereo recordings, cut in a V-shape with both a vertical and horizontal movement. While this wasn't much of a problem for the intended use of these machines in heavily frequency limited playback over AM radio, it was more so for any hifi aspirations.

These new motor mounts are not copies of the orginals. Instead, they are cast with the inner isolator part and the outer frame in silicones in two different hardnesses. The opaque inner isolator part is much thicker than the original membranes, in order to even out the vibrations vertically and horizontally, while at the same time providing a more effective overall damping. The black outer frame is not in metal as on the originals, but a stiffer silicone than the inner part. This provides further damping of the motor vibrations before them reaching the top plate.

A set consists of one thinner and two slightly (ca 0,7 mm) thicker isolators for a correct balance of the motor carrier plate, just as on the originals. The different parts are marked with small dots: at 11 o'clock for the thinner parts, and at 1 o'clock for the thicker one, as illustrated above. (Yes, the first photo above does show two thin ones and one thick. Sorry for the mixup).

A set of five pairs of steel spacers and washers per mount is also provided. But please note, no screws are included. Since we cannot know every type of screw used in all the different models using these mounts, we expect you to reuse the ones you already have, or to find replacements yourself.

Another quirk is that while most machines using these mounts only needed two threaded holes for the original steel frame of each isolator in the top plate, we recommend drilling and tapping the top plate for using all four fasteners (or three in the narrower positions). Since the frames of the new mounts are softer than the originals, this will improve the stability of them. Some of these turntables were factory built with four holes; if yours is, use them all, regardless of how the originals were mounted. While using only two screws should still be workable, the mounts may get slightly warped by the weight of the motor, possibly affecting its position.

The parts are made and sold in a square shape only, as in the images. One corner can easily be cut for a snug fit in positions originally requiring elliptic mounts. For best results, remove as little as possible of the frame when doing this.

Price for a full set of three grommets + hardware: 600 Sek +shipping

JVC JL-A1, JL-A10, JL-A11, JL-A15, JL-A20

The JL-A1 is one of our favourite "budget" turntables, with a better arm than the much more popular Pioneer PL-12 variations. It is even better without rumble.

Dimensions (in mm): H1: 14.8, D1: 5.0, D2: 10.0, D3: 7.0, D4: 11.0, D5: 18.0.

About foam inserts in the chassis springs

Marantz 6050, 6110 and 6200

3 grommets. Due to the original's hollow shape they use to age even worse than most. These new ones, being made in solid soft silicone, combine a better damping with a longer expected life.

Dimensions (in mm): H1: 10.5, D1: 6.0, D2: 9.5, D3: 7.0, D4: 10.0, D5: 16.0.

Marantz 6025 and 6100

4 grommets, see also note under 6050, 6110 and 6200, and Yamaha YP-B2.

Micro Seiki SR-111

Probably the best "budget" turntable from the early 70s, and also the ones I've met with some of the noisest original motor mounts.

Dimensions (in mm): H1: 10.5, D1: 6.0, D2: 11.0, D3: 7.0, D4: 10.0, D5: 15.5.

About foam inserts in the chassis springs

These grommets are also reported to be a perfect fit in at least some Braun PS-1000 models. The PS-1000 seems to have been built in two different designs of the motor mounts - do check yours before ordering.

Pioneer PL-12, PL-12ac, PL-15, PL-17

I make these in two versions. One like the original parts (first photo above), and one improved, replacing both the rubber grommets and the springs in the motor mounts (second photo). The second one makes the drive part of these older Pioneers similar to the one used in PL-12d, with a significant reduction of rumble.

The motor mounts in these pioneers were a historical parentheses; the following model, PL-12d was a return to the design of the previous PL-10 and PL-45. It seems reasonable to suspect this was because that design in fact was better.

The improved ones are what I use myself in the machines that I restore.

Dimensions for the improved one (in mm): H1: 19.0, D1: 6.0, D2: 10.0, D3: 9.5, D4: 12.0, D5: 20.0.

About foam inserts in the chassis springs

Pioneer PL-10, PL-12d, PL-15d, PL-12r, PL-15r, PL-17d, PL-512, PL-a35, PL-a45, PL-a45

Replaces Pioneer p/n E31-605-A for the PL-1x series, PEB-089 for PL-512.

They also fit in Akai AP-100, AP-100c, CEC BA-300, BA-600, BD-1000, BD-2000, BD-3000, BD-5000, BD-6000, and Sansui SR-212 .

Owners of PL-512 may be interested in the note below on PL-514 and 516.

By the way, there never was any vintage PL-120, which is a common misreading of PL-12D due to too hip typography. If you think you have one with an S-shaped metal tonearm and a cabinet in mock veneer, try looking closer at the corners of the last "0". These parts do not fit the real PL-120, a plastic deck with a straight arm from the 1980s.

These seem to have got themselves some sort of Facebook fame at the PL-12d group. I don't know what's been written there since I don't care for social media.

Dimensions (in mm): H1: 16.2, D1: 6.0, D2: 9.5, D3: 7.5, D4: 10.0, D5: 17.0.

About foam inserts in the chassis springs

Pioneer PL-514 and PL-516

Replaces Pioneer p/n PEB-089 (PL-514) and PEB-074 (PL-516). Same grommets as for the PL12d and PL-512, but four of them.

In the PL-51x generation Pioneer replaced the previous rubbber material with a more modern synthetic foam rubber. This may have been better when new, but did age much worse than the old stuff. So, this solid plinth Pioneer generation can gain even more than than the older ones from new motor mounts.

Dimensions (in mm): H1: 16.2, D1: 6.0, D2: 9.5, D3: 7.5, D4: 10.0, D5: 17.0.

Pioneer PL-112d, PL 115d and PL-117d

Replaces Pioneer p/n PEB-027.

Since the PL-112d is a suspended design, replacing the grommets will not make as big a difference as with the other parts on this page.

Dimensions (in mm): H1: 15.0, D1: 5.0, D2: 10.2, D3: 6.5, D4: 10.0, D5: 14.0.

Sonab 70s, 75s, and 85s

These Sonabs were repackaged versions of the excellent Yamaha yp-400 and yp-500, mostly targeted at the Swedish market. (More info under the Yamaha parts below)

Please note that the Sonabs due to some unknown reason were built for differently sized belts than the Yamahas.

Yamahas need a 0.7 mm belt, Sonabs 0.5 mm. Unfortunately, there are no makers of 0.5 mm belts in the correct length, and using a 0.7 one makes the turntable run a ridiculous 1.5% too fast. The only solution is to put the motor belt spindle into a lathe and turn its diameter down a smidgeon. We do offer this service, should your lathe be temporarily indisposed.

I've written a bit about some of the many quirks of these at Vinyl Engine.

Just as the Yamahas, these have three grommets at the motor mounts, and four (!) on the ones for the suspended chassis; 3 accessible from above, and 1 from below. The bottom one also has a different shape than the others, as can be seen in the photo.

It is not necessary to replace both sets at the same time. If you prefer to reuse some of the grommets, it is better to replace the four ones on the chassis, since those affect both the noise from the motor and from external vibrations.

When ordering, please specify if you want 3, 4 or 7 grommets.

Sony PS-1150

Replaces Sony p/n 4-891-555-00.

Interestingly, these use the same type of grommets as the Marantzes and some Yamahas: they all were made by some unnamed OEM builder, rumored to be CSC. But in a simliar vein as the Garrard SLs, these come in two slightly different heights, compensating for the sideways drag from the belt. Please, mount them in the correct positions. See also note under Marantz 6050, 6110 and 6200, and under Yamaha YP-B4 and YP-211.

Dimensions (in mm): H1: 10.5 / 9.8, D1: 6.0, D2: 9.5, D3: 7.0, D4: 10.0, D5: 16.0.

Sony ps-1350/2350, PS-1700, ps-5100, ps-5520, ps-5550

The same parts should work in several Sony models. As far as I know, the original parts of them all have the same shape, and since their motors seem to be similar in shape and weight, they also can be expected to require about the same hardness. If I'm wrong, I'd gladly add harder or softer parts to my stock. If so, please contact me.

The models these grommets should work in are:

• ps-1350/2350, p/n 4-808-834-01
• ps-1700 (I haven't found any service manual with a p/n for this - I'd be glad to get one!)
• ps-5520, p/n 4-808-834-01
• ps-5550, p/n 4-808-835-0
• ps-5100, p/n 4-808-834-11

Reportedly these grommets have also been successfully used for replacing the rubber isolators of the transformer on Technics SL-1200 mkI and mkII direct drive turntables, audibly reducing transformer hum into the plinth. I haven't had any opportunity to try it out myself yet. If you can wait, I am currently working on proper replacement mounts for the transformers on Technics SL-1200, SL-D2, SL-Q2, and Kenwood kd-600. I hope to have them available in the beginning of 2025.

Dimensions (in mm): H1: 9.0, D1: 5.0, D2: 11.0, D3: 7.0, D4: 11.0, D5: 15.0.

Thorens

All parts for Thorens are found on a separate page

Yamaha yp-400, yp-500, yp-700, yp-701, yp-800

Replaces the Spring Rubber-Bearing cb6187 (yp-500, yp-700), or the Rubber washer cb06183 (yp-400). S/N not specified for yp-800 or for Sonabs, but the parts are the same.

(The Sonab 70s, 75s, and 85s were rebadged YP-400 and YP-500, as described above).

Among the last Yamaha decks actually built in-house, these are interesting designs, with a cast zinc-based top and a double suspension. The motor and the subchassis are isolated on separate sets of springs from the top plate.

In this design most of the isolation is done by the springs, targeting the lower frequencies. The rubbers address the higher frequencies (and thereby also transient external vibrations), and improve the damping.

These decks use 7 rubber grommets, 3 for the motor, and 4 for the chassis suspension, with 3 accessible from above, and 1 from below. The bottom one also has a different shape than the others, as can be seen in the photo.

It is not necessary to replace both sets at once, so please specify if you need 3, 4, or 7 grommets when ordering. If reusing some of the old grommets, we recommend placing the new ones on the springs for the suspended inner chassis, since those affect both the noise from the motor and from external vibrations.

Apart from these rubber grommets the suspensions also have small isolating grommets atop of the springs. (Spring holder cb 06309 in the yp-400 service manual, no p/n supplied for the others). They are cast in a semi-soft plastic which normally shouldn't degrade. But if yours are hardened or somehow damaged, we make softer replacements for those too. Send us an email if you need some.

The suspension springs have a foam damper inside. That foam should be replaced while you ar at it. The same polyester foam as we offer for other chassis springs can be cut into a good-enough fit for the job: About foam inserts in chassis springs

Yamaha YP-B4 and YP-211

(I would gladly receive any info on the original part numbers)

These models weren't built in-house by Yamaha, but by the same OEM builder as the Marantzes and Sony PS-1150, evidenced by their very similar internal designs, and them all using the same type of motor mounts.

YP-B4 and YP-211 had the same configuration as the Sony, with two higher and one lower mount. The Yamaha parts may have been about 1 mm lower than the Sony ones. Still, a set for the Sony PS-1150 fits the Yamahas, only possibly needing a slight adjustment of the height of the motor spindle should the belt chafe against the speed selector after replacement.

Yamaha YP-B2

Replaces Yamaha p/n sx951040.

OEM built, just as the YP-B4 and YP-211, with the same shape of the motor mounts. The YP-B2 has four grommets of equal height. I haven't been able to verify this, but probably the same reservation about the height of the motor spindle as for the YP-B4 applies for the YP-B2 too.

 

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A footnote on foam dampers for chassis springs

We often get questions about the foam inserts in the springs between the cabinet and the top plate on typical 60-70's turntables. Eg. Garrards, the Pioneer and JVC belt drives, and such. Duals seem to never have had foam in their springs from the factory, but the reasoning here should apply to those too. Likewise to the foam dampers in the springs of suspended designs, as in Thorens and such.

Plain springs work mostly as low frequency vibration isolators. But they do not have much effect on higher frequencies, or provide much of damping. The function of the foam is to add a bit of the necessary damping to the springs, thus improving the isolation and damping of external vibrations.

In this context, the "higher frequencies" are less about loud high pitched notes than about the effect on transient low frequency vibrations, such as footsteps through the floor, or bass drums from the loudspeakers. In the frequency spectrum of such transients, it is the higher overtones that gives the low frequency signals their sharp "edge". Improving the damping of the isolating springs will both reduce the effect of these external transient noises and of higher frequency vibrations on the playback.

The quality of this foam is not particularly critical. The original foam is now 50-60 years old, dried out, and should always be replaced. You should have a piece of foam in the springs, but you can use pretty much any plastic/rubbber foam for this as long it still is a bit springy. You are unlikely to hear any difference between a corner of your old mattress and a magical audiophile damping foam.

If you don't have anything suitable at hand, we can add a piece of the foam we use when restoring decks with this kind of springs to your motor mount order. What you'll get is a slice of gray polyester foam of the same type as often used in tool boxes or cases for photographic equipment, ca 2.5 x 2.5 x 15 cm. This can be cut down with scissors to suitable pieces in a more or less round or octogonal shape.

Cut the pieces a bit smaller than you would expect. If the springs are too stuffed when compressed by the weight of the deck the resulting isolator will be too hard, reducing its effect.

If you need a piece of foam, just add a line to your order mail, and 5 SEK to the sum of your order.

 

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Latest news

Coming in the beginning of 2025:

Silicone vibration isolators for the transformers on Technics SL-1200, SL-D2, SL-Q2, and Kenwood kd-600

November 2024:

Silicone motor mounts for Gates, QRK, RCA, Russco broadcast turntables

July 2024:

New motor mounts for Yamaha yp-400, yp-500, yp-700, yp-701, yp-800, and Sonab 70s, 75s, 85s

New motor mounts for Garrard RC88, RC98, Type A, A70, Model 4, 4hf, RC120, RC121, RC209 and RC210

Newish motor mounts for Garrard AT60, Model 50, 1000/2000/3000

Updated info about the Garrard Synchro-Lab motor mounts

 

Index

Akai AP-3

Akai AP-100, AP-100c

Braun PS-500

Braun PS-1000

CEC BA-300, BA-600, BD-1000, BD-2000, BD-3000, BD-5000, BD-6000

Dual 505, 508

Dual 502, 504, 506, 510, 521, 601

Elac Miracord 10H, 40H, 50H

Garrard Zero 100, SL-95, SL-86, SL25, Autoslim

Garrard AT60, Model 50, 1000/2000/3000

Garrard RC88, RC98, Type A, A70, Model 4, 4lf

Garrard Lab 80

Gates (multiple models)

JVC JL-A1, JL-A10, JL-A11, JL-A15, JL-A20

Marantz 6050, 6110, 6200

Marantz 6025, 6100

Micro Seiki SR-111

Pioneer PL-12, PL-12ac, PL-15, PL-17

Pioneer PL-10, PL-12d, PL-15d, PL-12r, PL-15r, PL-17d, PL-512, PL-a35, PL-a45, PL-a45

Pioneer PL-514, PL-516

Pioneer PL-112d, PL 115d, PL-117d

QRK (multiple models)

Russco (E.g. Studio Pro, Cue Master)

RCA (multiple models)

Sonab 70s, 75s, 85s

Sony PS-1150

Sony ps-1350/2350, PS-1700, ps-5100, ps-5520, ps-5550

Thorens td-124, td-135

Yamaha yp-400, yp-500, yp-700, yp-701, yp-800

Yamaha YP-B4, YP-211

Yamaha YP-B2