Special parts in stock

Silicone motor mounts for vintage turntables

Price: 55 Sek / grommet + postage. Most sets consist of 3 grommets, some of 2, 4, or 6.

(A.k.a. vibration isolators, rubber bushings, rubber buffers, shock absorbers, rubber damping blocks, cushions, gummit├╝lle, gommini gel motore, supports de moteur de tourne-disque)

We make and sell hand cast copies of orginal parts, with a perfect fit, better vibration damping, and longer expected lifetime than the originals. All vital external dimensions as in original parts, but sometimes with details adapted to the materials and methods used.

Most of the parts listed here aren't available anywhere else.

We keep silicones in several different qualites on stock, and make the parts in the best hardness for each individual turntable model. The quality used is chosen primarily by measuring for the most effective vibration damping, and secondly for the sideways stability of the motor, to minimise any fluctuations in the tension of the belt.

Since silicone is a far more effective vibration damper than the original rubbers ever were, a properly restored turntable with silicone motor mounts will normally have less rumble than when new, even accounting for normal wear.

Usually one can expect a reduction of the motor rumble of ca 6-10dB (unweighted, measured at the top plate) compared to original parts - even more if the originals are badly aged. On most belt drive machines this is enough to at least reduce the rumble to, or below, the surface noise from the records, which is the most important level to achieve.

Replacing the parts is normally a drop-in affair. Sometimes the height of the motor spindle may need an adjustment, if the belt should chafe against some other part, or if the idler wheel would meet the spindle at the wrong height.

About rumble

"Rumble" is the common term for mechanical noise from the turntable's machinery. It is most commonly identified by a constant droning noise at a fixed pitch set by the rotating speed of the motor, audible through the loudspeakers when the stylus is playing the record.

If the noise stops or is reduced when raising the cartridge from the record, you are hearing rumble. If it doesn't, you probably are hearing an electrical hum, which these motor mounts will not help.

While rumble is dominated by the motor drone, it in fact consists of a wide spectrum of frequencies from different moving parts, plus their respective - often surprisingly loud - overtones. That spectrum drowns out the details of the music not loud enough to be heard behind it. This masking makes rumble not only a problem of added audible noise, but also one of lost musical information. The somewhat iffy audiophile metafor of a "black background" is in fact an apt description of the less obvious parts of this effect.

Apart from bad motor mounts, some common sources for rumble to look for are dried out or oxidised oil in the motor or main bearing, or badly worn bearings. On idler drives the state of the idler wheel and its bearing is another thing to look out for.

It really can't be stressed enough: on any belt or idler drive vintage turntable, even if you can't do a proper restoration of the bearings, please at least lubricate the main bearing, and if possible, also the motor and idler bearings with a sewing machine or compressor oil before putting it into continuous use. If you didn't before, do it now.

You can always get back for a proper by-the-book restoration with the ideal oils at a later day. But you can very seldom replace 60 years old bearings worn out due to lack of oil. Many vintage machines in the current turntable revival are already irretrievably damaged because their new users didn't take this simple first step. Adding to the misfortune, the better the bearings - and the turntable - the more there is to lose by lack of maintenance.

Replacing the motor mounts is not a substitution for servicing the bearings.


If your turntable isn't listed here the motor mounts can often be replaced by one from another brand or model. Start by comparing the dimensions of your original part with the ones given here.

If a potential replacement is a bit too high, the top can usually be cut down a bit with a sharp knife. (Push a pen into the hole, and cut against the side of it).

If too low, an O-ring, or even a spacer at the top of the grommet should do the trick.

There is also one more option: we can perhaps arrange a way to copy your old grommets, and add them to our stock. Feel free to contact us with any questions.

Parts in stock

Akai AP-3 (same as the Thorens td-124/135)

Akai AP-3 motor mounts

More info on other Thorens parts can be found on a separate page.

Dimensions (in mm): H1: 5.0, D1: 4.8, D2: 8.2, D3: 5.5, D4: 10.0, D5: 12.5.

Akai AP-100 and AP-100c

The original motor mounts (called rubber pad SBR in the service manual) in these have a slightly different profile, but effectively the same dimensions as the ones for Pioneer PL-12d (see below). They only differ by a couple of tenths of a mm, which does not affect their function.

Dimensions for the recommended Pioneer parts (in mm): H1: 16.2, D1: 6.0, D2: 9.5, D3: 7.5, D4: 10.0, D5: 17.0.

(For reference, the dimensions for the orginal parts are H1: 16.4. D1: 6.0, D2; 9.8, D3: 7.8, D4: 10.4, D5: 18.4)

Braun PS-500

The parts I make for the Braun PS-500 have a separate page. Owners of PS-1000 may be interested in the ones for the Micro Seiki SR-111 below.

Dual 505, 508

Dual 505, 508  motor mounts

Replaces Dual p/n 232 841. Honestly: the Dual original mounts are made in top quality rubbers, and don't normally need to be replaced. While these are a bit more effective than the original parts, they are primarily meant as replacements for badly aged or damaged parts.

If your belt drive Dual has an audible rumble, the first thing to do is to take the motor apart, clean and oil it. These motors have bearings with some of the smallest oil reservoirs of any turntable, which means they are always dried out. The motor mounts are to be suspected only if the motor is still noisy after an overhaul.

The grommets for 505 and 508 are not symmetrical as the originals. This doesn't affect their function. Due to the methods and materials used, they have a slightly uglier bottom side. Mount them with the neat conical side upwards, since that is where they carry the weight of the motor.

Dimensions (in mm): H1: 4.5, D1: 3.0, D2: 6.5, D3: 3.0, D4: 8.0, D5: 11.0.

Dual 502, 504, 506, 510, 521, 601

Dual 502, 504, 506, 510, 521, 601 motor mounts

See note under Dual 505, 508.

Dimensions (in mm): H1: 10.0, D1: 4.0, D2: 12.0, D3: 5.0.0, D4: 8.0, D5: 12.0.

Elac Miracord 10H, 40H, 50H et al

Elac Miracord 10H, 40H, 50H  motor mounts

Replaces Elac p/n 17 416 5263. I think these are used in all Elac models, but would be glad to be corrected if wrong. Please check your motor before ordering. Most have 2 grommets on top (the nylon stopper doesn't need to be replaced), but some have an additional third one at the bottom of the motor.

Dimensions (in mm): H1: 5.0, D1: 3.8, D2: 10.0, D3: 4.5, D4: 7.5, D5: 11.1.

Garrard Zero 100, SL-95, SL-86, SL25, Autoslim - basically most of the models after Lab 80

Garrard Zero 100, SL-95, SL-86, SL25, Autoslim motor mounts

Replaces Garrard p/n 43129/002 and 43129/003. A new redesigned version of these parts since August 2023. Mainly improved in their grip of the pillars the motor hangs from, achieved by a more precise shape of the tip, and another type of silicone than before in the two softer grommets.

Dimensions (in mm): H1: 8.1, D1: 4.8, D2: 10.0, D3: 6.8, D4: 9.0, D5: 13.2.

About foam inserts in the chassis springs

Garrard Lab 80

Garrard Lab 80 motor mounts

Garrard p/n: 43135/01.

The Lab 80 has the motor sandwiched inside a steel cage, with two sets of rubber grommets at top and bottom for isolation - 6 grommets in total in a simplified version of the 301/401 motor mounts.

The original parts were made in a very high quality rubber in a hollow shape, and have often aged surprisingly well. On at least some machines they came with two of the grommets in a slightly different shape, compensating for the sideways force from the idler wheel. This is very easy to overlook in the original parts, especially if they have deformed with age, since the two grommets are only 1 mm lower and slightly wider without any other visible clues. This is not even mentioned in the service manuals.

These new grommets have a slightly modified design for best balance between damping and sideways stability, without the hollow innards of the originals. Also, the two shorter grommets now have a small notch along the middle for easy identification. Mount those two at the top side of the motor, closest to the idler wheel. The parts are designed and tested in cooperation with ´╗┐Wallace Nesbitt at the Garrard Lab 80 and Type A Turntable Lovers Facebook group.

I wouldn't recommend it, but of course you can get six equally high grommets if you prefer so. Just add a note when placing your order.

Standard dimensions are not applicable. The height between the top and bottom flanges is 13.8 / 13.0 mm

JVC JL-A1, JL-A10, JL-A11, JL-A15, JL-A20

JVC JL-A1, JL-A10, JL-A11, JL-A15, JL-A20 motor mounts

The JL-A1 is one of our favourite "budget" turntables, with a better arm than the much more popular Pioneer PL-12 variations. It is even better without rumble.

Dimensions (in mm): H1: 14.8, D1: 5.0, D2: 10.0, D3: 7.0, D4: 11.0, D5: 18.0.

About foam inserts in the chassis springs

Marantz 6050, 6110 and 6200

Marantz 6050, 6110 and 6200  motor mounts

3 grommets. Due to the original's hollow shape they use to age even worse than most. These new ones, being made in solid silicone, combine a better damping with a longer expected life.

Dimensions (in mm): H1: 10.5, D1: 6.0, D2: 9.5, D3: 7.0, D4: 10.0, D5: 16.0.

Marantz 6025 and 6100

Marantz 6025 and 6100  motor mounts

4 grommets, see also note under 6050, 6110 and 6200, and Yamaha YP-B2.

Micro Seiki SR-111

Micro Seiki SR-111 motor mounts

Probably the best "budget" turntable from the early 70s, and also the ones I've met with some of the noisest original motor mounts.

Dimensions (in mm): H1: 10.5, D1: 6.0, D2: 11.0, D3: 7.0, D4: 10.0, D5: 15.5.

About foam inserts in the chassis springs

These grommets are also reported to be a perfect fit in at least some Braun PS-1000 models. The PS-1000 seems to have been built in two different designs of the motor mounts - do check yours before ordering.

Pioneer PL-12, PL-12ac, PL-15, PL-17

Pioneer PL-12, PL-12ac, PL-15, PL-17  motor mounts, original type

Pioneer PL-12, PL-12ac, PL-15, PL-17  motor mounts, improved type

I make these in two versions. One like the original parts (first photo above), and one improved, replacing both the rubber grommets and the springs in the motor mounts (second photo). The second one makes the drive part of these older Pioneers similar to the one used in PL-12d, with a significant reduction of rumble.

The motor mounts in these pioneers were a historical parentheses; the following model, PL-12d was a return to the design of the previous PL-10 and PL-45. It seems reasonable to suspect this was because that design in fact was better.

The improved ones are what I use myself in the machines that I restore.

Dimensions for the improved one (in mm): H1: 19.0, D1: 6.0, D2: 10.0, D3: 9.5, D4: 12.0, D5: 20.0.

About foam inserts in the chassis springs

Pioneer PL-10, PL-12d, PL-15d, PL-12r, PL-15r, PL-17d, PL-512, PL-a35, PL-a45, PL-a45

Pioneer PL-10, PL-12d, PL-15d, PL-12r, PL-15r, PL-17d, PL-512, PL-a35, PL-a45, PL-a45  motor mounts

Replaces Pioneer p/n E31-605-A for the PL-1x series, PEB-089 for PL-512. Reportedly they also fit in Akai AP-100, AP-100c, and Sansui SR-212. Owners of PL-512 may be interested in the note below on PL-514 and 516.

By the way, there never was any vintage PL-120, which is a common misreading of PL-12D due to too hip typography. If you think you have one with an S-shaped metal tonearm and a cabinet in mock veneer, try looking closer at the corners of the last "0". These parts do not fit the real PL-120, a plastic deck with a straight arm from the 1980s.

These parts seem to have got themselves some sort of Facebook fame at the PL-12d group. I don't know what's been written there since I don't care for social media.

Dimensions (in mm): H1: 16.2, D1: 6.0, D2: 9.5, D3: 7.5, D4: 10.0, D5: 17.0.

About foam inserts in the chassis springs

Pioneer PL-514 and PL-516

Pioneer PL-514 and PL-516  motor mounts

In the PL-51x generation Pioneer replaced the previous rubbber material with a more modern synthetic foam rubber. This may have been better when new, but did age much worse than the old stuff. So, this solid plinth Pioneer generation can gain even more than than the older ones from new motor mounts.

Replaces Pioneer p/n PEB-089 (PL-514) and PEB-074 (PL-516). Same grommets as for the PL12d and PL-512, but four of them.

Dimensions (in mm): H1: 16.2, D1: 6.0, D2: 9.5, D3: 7.5, D4: 10.0, D5: 17.0.

Pioneer PL-112d, PL 115d and PL-117d

Pioneer PL-112d, PL 115d and PL-117d  motor mounts

Replaces Pioneer p/n PEB-027. Since the PL-112d is a suspended design, replacing the grommets will not make as big a difference as with the other parts on this page.

Dimensions (in mm): H1: 15.0, D1: 5.0, D2: 10.2, D3: 6.5, D4: 10.0, D5: 14.0.

Sony PS-1150

Sony PS-1150 motor mounts

Replaces Sony p/n 4-891-555-00. Interestingly, these use the same type of grommets as the Marantzes and some Yamahas: they all were made by some unnamed OEM builder, rumored to be CSC. But in a simliar vein as the Garrards, these come in two slightly different heights, compensating for the sideways drag from the belt. Please, mount them in the correct positions. See also note under Marantz 6050, 6110 and 6200, and under Yamaha YP-B4 and YP-211.

Dimensions (in mm): H1: 10.5 / 9.8, D1: 6.0, D2: 9.5, D3: 7.0, D4: 10.0, D5: 16.0.

Sony ps-1350/2350, PS-1700, ps-5100, ps-5520, ps-5550

Sony ps-1350/2350, PS-1700, ps-5100, ps-5520, ps-5550  motor mounts

The same parts should work in several Sony models. As far as I know, the original parts of them all have the same shape, and since their motors seem to be similar in shape and weight, they also can be expected to require about the same hardness. If I'm wrong, I'd gladly add harder or softer parts to my stock. If so, please contact me.

The models these grommets should work in are:

  • ps-1350/2350, p/n 4-808-834-01
  • ps-1700 (I haven't found any service manual with a p/n for this - I'd be glad to get one!)
  • ps-5520, p/n 4-808-834-01
  • ps-5550, p/n 4-808-835-0
  • ps-5100, p/n 4-808-834-11

Reportedly these grommets have also been successfully used for replacing the rubber mounts of the transformer on Technics SL-1200 mkI and mkII direct drive turntables, audibly reducing transformer hum into the plinth. I haven't had any opportunity to try it out myself yet.

Dimensions (in mm): H1: 9.0, D1: 5.0, D2: 11.0, D3: 7.0, D4: 11.0, D5: 15.0.


All parts for Thorens are found on a separate page

Yamaha YP-B4 and YP-211

Sony PS-1150 motor mounts

(I would gladly receive any info on the original part numbers)

These models weren't built in-house by Yamaha, but by the same OEM builder as the Marantzes and Sony PS-1150, evidenced by their very similar internal designs, and them all using the same type of motor mounts.

YP-B4 and YP-211 had the same configuration as the Sony, with two higher and one lower mount. The Yamaha parts seem to be about 1 mm lower than the Sony ones. Still, a set for the Sony PS-1150 fits the Yamahas, only possibly needing a slight adjustment of the height of the motor spindle should the belt chafe against the speed selector after replacement.

Yamaha YP-B2

Marantz 6025 and 6100  motor mounts

Replaces Yamaha p/n sx951040.

OEM built, just as the YP-B4 and YP-211, with the same shape of the motor mounts. The YP-B2 has four grommets of equal height. I haven't been able to verify this, but probably the same reservation about the height of the motor spindle as for the YP-B4 applies for the YP-B2 too.


A footnote on foam dampers for chassis springs

We often get questions about the foam inserts in the springs between the cabinet and the top plate on typical 60-70's turntables. (Eg. Duals, Garrards, the Pioneer and JVC belt drives, and such).

The quality of this foam is not critical - its purpose is to damp resonances in the springs themselves, and to add a slight damping of wobble in the top plate, which all toghether improves damping of external vibrations.

The original foam is now 50-60 years old, dried out, and should be replaced. You really should have a piece of foam in the springs, but you can use pretty much any plastic/rubbber foam for this as long it still is a bit springy. You won't hear any difference between a corner of your old mattress and a magical audiophile damping foam.

If you don't have anything suitable at hand, we can add a piece of the foam we use when restoring decks with this kind of springs to your motor mount order. What you'll get is a slice of gray polyester foam of the same type as often used in tool boxes or cases for photographic equipment, ca 2.5 x 2.5 x 15 cm. This can be cut down with scissors to four pieces in a roughly octogonal shape.

If you need this, just add a line to your order mail, and 5 SEK to the sum of your order.


Most of the parts we sell can be bought through Tradera, a Swedish auction site. Unfortunately, Tradera can be pretty hostile against buyers outside EU, and not always very helpful for those inside too. We've heard some nasty stuff about requirements for copies of passports. Also, since 2024 Tradera adds a "buyer protection fee" to all non-swedish orders, which we of course do not.

All parts we sell can be ordered directly by contact via e-mail:

We ship worldwide, and accept payment through PayPal or bank transfer. Customers in Sweden can also pay by Swish or Plusgiro.

Shipping fees are of course dependent on the weight of the parts, and on the receiving country. Typically, the fee for sets of motor mounts within EU, USA, Australia, and many other regions is 36 SEK for a plain letter, or 114 SEK for a trackable one. (Within Sweden, 18 SEK or 58 SEK). The fee for other regions may be higher. Likewise for heavier parts, like sets of Sonab feet or Braun dampers.

Since the parts are hand made in very small batches, we don't have the margins to offer any notable discounts for larger orders, or to resellers. The best we can do is to not increase the postage fee for orders with multiple sets of parts, and for business buyers within EU we can arrange the usual VAT deduction. If this applies to your order, please add the correct name and the VAT identification number of your business to the e-mail with your request.

Normally all parts listed are in stock. Any parts that may have been recently sold out can be made in one day or two.